Cooper Capers Identified
you had a letter regarding the ABS light staying on in a Mini Cooper (“Cooper
It appears that the main reason the ABS light comes on is that the ABS sensor
for the right front wheel is not located correctly or fully in the
cross-member. This can lead to the crank pulley hitting it or the sensor not
picking up the wheel signal properly. One of the Senior Techs at my place of
work has replaced a sensor and had it happen to him after doing so. You must
clear the fault memory after the problem is rectified.
As always, a good scan tool or BMW/Mini dealer should trace down the cause of
an error light. This should be the starting point.
A great online mag you guys have - I recently bought every issue and
subscribed! You have some great articles and electronic projects that will come
in very handy for the 2JZ-GTE conversion into my R31 Nissan Skyline. I am doing
pretty much all the work in my shed with mates. Keep those tech articles and
Do-It-Yourself projects coming!
Regarding your article on the Mitsubishi MIVEC series of engines (Mountain of MIVECs)...
Here's one from the 1990s which you missed out - and it's the big daddy!
There was a MIVEC version of the 6G74 3.5-litre V6, which I understand made in
the order of 206kW at 6500 rpm and 348Nm at 3000 rpm. It was fitted to a very
interesting vehicle - the Pajero Evolution. This limited edition run of SWB
Pajeros was essentially a road-going version of some of Mitsubishi's successful
Paris-Dakar rally vehicles (in much the same way as the Lancer Evolution series
By the way, I have a Mitsubishi FTO GP Version R as tested in your article on
the MIVEC FTO (Pre-Owned Performance - Mitsubishi FTO MIVEC V6 GP Automatic).
Mine is a 5-speed manual and I love it – an awesome car to drive. Keep up the
You’re absolutely right – thank for
the excellent info!
After an Economical Runabout
Full-size diesel 4x4 wagons have always been my weapon of choice. But,
despite their fuel efficiency compared to petrol-powered cousins, the current
AUD$1.50 per litre diesel price in the remote town where I live is starting to
hurt my pocket.
I am considering a second more economical two-wheel-drive runabout. I have a
wife and large dog so am not keen on two-door Suzuki Swift or Mazda 121
alternatives. Can you give me some examples of small to medium cars in the last
decade with decent economy (around 7-litres per 100km or better) that are also
within AUD$3000 – AUD$6000?
Sounds like you need something in the
1.6 to 2-litre class. Take a look at the Daewoo Espero and Nubira, Daihatsu
Applause, Ford Laser and Mondeo, Hyundai Lantra and Sonata, Mazda 626/Telstar,
Mitsubishi Lancer, Nissan Pulsar, Toyota Corolla/Holden Nova, Seat Toledo and
Suzuki Baleno. There’s also the Nissan Bluebird 2.4 litre and Toyota Camry 2.2
litre, but they’re pushing past 7-litres per 100km.
Bag a Bellmouth
A while back you had an article on Do-It-Yourself bellmouths using eggcups -
Do you know if they are still available? If so, where can I get them from?
We’re not sure if Woolworths still has
the same stainless steel eggcups but any similar product should do the
trick. We suggest that you visit the cooking section of a couple of department
Just a quick note... In your article "Right Way GT-R" (Right Way GT-R)
you mention that the car is a V-Spec II. Are you sure? As far as I know there
has never been a R33 GT-R V-Spec II... Plenty of other R33 GT-R variants - the
Autech four-door, V-Spec, LM, N1 and the mighty 400R.
Keep up the good work! You are by far the best automotive performance mag on
Guy El Khoury
Our mistake – it is a R33 Skyline R33
V-spec. Article now corrected.
Water Injection Controller
I am interested in the motor speed control module for use in a water
injection system. What I need is the schematic which will automatically vary the
flow of water with engine load. I hope you can help me out.
The perfect unit for your application
is the Independent Electronic Boost Controller (IEBC). The IEBC receives an injector duty cycle
input (which represents engine load) and can be configured to drive a water
injector. See The Independent Electronic Boost Control, Part 1
Re your On-Site Disc Machining article (The Independent Electronic Boost Control, Part 1).
I would be interested to buy a mobile brake lathe or a stationary one. Would you
know what the best brands are in this category?
We suggest talking to long-running
brake machining operators, such as the company listed in the article – Mobile
Brake Specialists Pty Ltd (Adelaide, South Australia) on +61 8 8211 8442
I'm always looking for more efficient ways to go about things. One thing I
came across while doing a bit of research is adding a small amount of acetone to
regular gasoline. Supposedly, the benefits include better economy, better
emissions and more complete combustion (emissions being related to completeness
Before I go off experimenting with acetone, I am curious about the effects on
the fuel system. I am also building a fuel vaporizer that runs through the PCV
system. Does acetone oxidize aluminium like some alcohols?
Can any readers help with their
experiences or further information?